Plenty of room to relax

We stayed in a Family Room in The Retreat at The Ritz-Carlton, Abama, Tenerife, and it couldn’t have been a better fit for our little crew. The (very large) space was spot on — two queen beds, a cot, and a sofa bed meant everyone had room to spread out. These rooms are technically designed to interconnect with One-Bedroom Suites for families with older kids, but for us, with two little ones, it worked perfectly. If you’re after completely separate sleeping spaces, though, it’s worth considering one of the One-Bedroom Suites, or interconnecting rooms. The bathtub was a total holiday highlight, especially with those Diptyque toiletries! Our doors opened straight onto a private outdoor area with sumptuous sun loungers, just a few steps from our shared, yet semi-private, Retreat pool — a total game-changer for parents. My son practically lived in the pool, while my daughter napped in the cot, all comfortably within baby monitor range (parenting win)

More on The Retreat

The Retreat itself feels like a boutique hotel within the resort, spread across four terracotta avenues — two dedicated to families and two reserved for adults. It’s just a five-minute stroll to the main Citadel area, where you’ll find the restaurants and the big zero-entry pool. And yes, the resort is pretty hilly, so if you’re carrying a toddler, expect to work up a bit of a sweat. You can always hop on a buggy transfer, but honestly, I liked having the excuse to feel slightly active on holiday. (That said, bring a pram — we didn’t, and I regretted it by day two.) If you really want everything right on your doorstep, the Citadel rooms are your best bet

Staying at The Retreat definitely comes with some serious perks: an exclusive breakfast, a dedicated chill pool area, and complimentary afternoon bites, cakes, and free-flowing drinks (think soft drinks, tea, coffee, select wines and beer — cava included, thankfully). That said, The Retreat does come at a higher price point, and personally, since we’re not big drinkers and spent most of our time down at the Lagoon Pool, we probably didn’t make the most of it. If you’re partial to a cocktail or two (or three) and have older kids who don’t need the shallow-entry pools, it’s definitely more worth the splurge

Fun for the little ones

The Ritz-Carlton Abama, Tenerife really sets the bar for family-friendly luxury, especially when it comes to keeping little ones entertained. The supervised kids’ club welcomes children from 4+, but younger siblings and tiny travellers can join in too under parental supervision—though it’s worth pre-booking your slot to avoid disappointment. Just inside, a cosy side room is perfect for babies and toddlers, with age-appropriate toys, a tepee tent, role-play kitchen, mini theatre, and little cars and rovers to explore. Then there’s the main event: a bright, airy, joy-filled space where kids can truly let off steam. Think a duo slide plunging into a ball pit, a gaming zone with bean bags, Lego and arts-and-crafts tables, and a small amphitheatre for music or DJ sessions—all backed up by a full schedule of fun activities to keep everyone happily busy.

Outside, little gardeners and mud enthusiasts can get hands-on in the mud kitchen and mini garden, while the gated outdoor playground offers climbing frames, swings, and a football pitch for extra energy-burning. Beyond the club itself, the whimsical, bug-themed playground is a hit with tiny adventurers, complete with a giant spider and grasshopper to climb, sunken trampolines, slides, and swings. Families can also enjoy the Koi Point and the enchanting little train that runs down to the beach—a firm favourite with my own tiny explorers

Europe’s best hotel for foodie families?

Hand on heart, the food at The Ritz-Carlton Abama, Tenerife is some of the best I’ve ever had in a hotel — and honestly, it could give a few of London’s top restaurants a serious run for their money. Every meal felt like an event, and hopping between restaurants was less “standard hotel dining” and more like diving into a destination dining scene

Verde Mar was a standout — vegetable-led, vibrant, and so good I was borderline emotional about an aubergine dish (if it’s on the menu, trust me, order it). Verona, the resort’s Italian restaurant, completely exceeded expectations — my scampi linguine was heaven on a plate, and the pistachio cheesecake? Quite possibly life-changing. Even the pizzas were next level — think pumpkin cream with seeds and beef n’duja, parmesan and leek cream with artichoke and hazelnut pesto, or even a carbonara pizza with candied yolk. While the adult menus are refined and indulgent, the kids’ options are equally well thought out. The staff couldn’t have been more accommodating, happily adapting dishes to suit my two (who, if I’m being honest, live almost exclusively on plain pasta with butter and cheese). And while we didn’t make it to the two Michelin-starred restaurants this time (they’re for ages 6+), next time I’m definitely booking a babysitter and doing it properly

More on the gorgeous gastronomy

We stayed B&B (in a Retreat room), which worked brilliantly, especially with the complimentary tapas-style light bites served daily. These are definitely more grown-up in taste — think salmon and edamame salad, anchovy brioche, tuna belly salad, and raspberry gazpacho — so not really aimed at little ones. My kids don’t eat a huge lunch anyway (they’re usually full from breakfast), so we kept things simple with cheese sandwiches and hit up the fruit bar for apples and bananas. Their absolute highlight? Free-flow pick ’n’ mix sweets and soft-serve ice cream, of course. Kids can also order off the kids’ menu if you want something a bit more substantial, though it comes at an extra cost. . Breakfast at The Retreat was its own little slice of heaven. Think bowls of tropical fruit, nuts, seeds, pastries, breads, cheeses, and cured meats, plus all the breakfast classics (yes, there’s bacon). If you prefer a sit-down start, the à la carte menu offers the likes of omelettes and eggs benedict

In case it’s not already glaringly obvious, if you love your food — like really love your food — you will be in absolute heaven here

Diving in!

For us, the real highlight was the lagoon pool at the Citadel. My son couldn’t get enough of clambering over the rocks, while we loved watching my little girl—who’s not quite confident swimming alone yet—splash safely in the gently sloping entry, all from the comfort of our front-row sunbeds. The pool is huge, so even when it’s busy it never feels overcrowded. The Retreat pools, by contrast, are deeper and designed for proper swimming, which worked perfectly for my four-year-old, who’s just mastered swimming solo. I also really appreciated how easy it was to balance nap times with swim times between siblings. And the heated pools really were warm—even in October we found them lovely to swim in.

I’m a big fan of hotels that have adult-only pools too. It means you don’t have to stress about the noise or splashes your little ones are making, because if adults want peace and quiet, there are plenty of other spaces to retreat to. Getting to the beach is a treat in itself: it’s a short funicular ride down from the exclusive Retreat area, where breakfast is served for retreat guests, or a mini train ride from the main hotel. It’s a little bit of a distance from the pool to the beach, but the hotel makes it super easy to whizz between. The beach sits in a small cove, giving it a wonderfully secluded feel. It’s public, but Ritz-Carlton guests have reserved sunbeds, towels, toilets, a beachside restaurant, and even complimentary water and sunscreen. And for little ones—or big kids at heart—it’s prime sandcastle-building territory. My husband loved taking my four-year-old out for a swim; the waves were gentle enough to enjoy, though I wouldn’t let little ones play too close to the water unsupervised