Madeira With Kids: Things to Do, Hotels & Highlights

Ride the cable car to Monte

If your kids spot the cable cars gliding overhead while you’re wandering around Funchal before you’ve even told them where you’re headed, you’re onto a winner. Ours did (they fly right over the city), and were then fizzing with excitement when they found out we were going in a cable car. They had great fun waving at the cabins from the streets below, before we then climbed aboard ourselves

There was next to no queue when we visited, but if you find a little line when you arrive just scan the QR code on the window and buy your tickets on your phone there and then. This way, you get to jump to the front of the queue. The journey itself takes around 18 minutes, with spectacular views opening up as you climb higher and higher. On one side, you look out over the Atlantic Ocean, with the city’s roofs below you and mountains up ahead

It’s very easy with children plus it’s buggy friendly – there’s ramps everywhere, and you can take a pram into the cable car, too. And when you arrive at the top, you’re very conveniently located right next to the Monte Palace Tropical Garden entrance! 

If you’re planning on jumping in a famous Toboggan on your way back down into Funchal (which I highly recommend – we’ll get on to that in a sec), remember, you only need to buy a one-way cable car ticket

Spend Half a Day at Monte Palace Tropical Garden

This is one of those places where photographs genuinely don’t prepare you for the scale of it. The gardens are humungous, incredibly lush and packed with colour, with different areas and themes unfolding as you descend through them. You arrive at the topmost level, with the various terraces and manicured spaces unfolding below you, and the grand finale – the Atlantic ocean – at the bottom in the distance

It’s probably the most ‘alive’ place I’ve ever been – the plants are so vibrant and enormous they almost look comical. There are little paths and tunnels of greenery for children to disappear down, stepping stones to hop across and even a huge cave filled with sparkling gemstones every colour of the rainbow. Our children loved it. They spent their time following after roaming peacocks, gawking at flamingos, and exclaiming ‘what is THAT’ at plants that looked like something from outer space

Allow at least half a day. We spent around three hours there and could easily have stayed longer. You can also pay extra for a ride in one of the old-fashioned cars if little legs are starting to tire

A practical note for families: you can’t take a pram into the gardens, so you’ll need to leave it at reception. There are also cafés with fantastic views, and even a little stand selling fresh pineapple juice served inside a pineapple 

Take the Monte Toboggan

Forget amusement parks: Madeira has its own brilliant, much more unique, adrenaline thrill: a huge downhill toboggan!

Just around the corner from the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens, you can climb into one of the famous wicker basket toboggans and be whisked down the streets by two traditionally dressed “carreiros”, who steer and brake the basket with their feet. In other words, don’t buy cable car return tickets, because what. an. experience

All four of us were able to go in one together, with our almost-two-year-old sitting on our laps. Not counting babies, a toboggan can usually take up to three people plus handbags etc, though we did manage to squeeze our folded pram under the seat too!

And yes, it really is as fun as it looks. It’s fast enough to feel exciting but not so fast that it’s frightening for kids. The whole thing takes around 10 minutes, and the views over Funchal and the Atlantic make it even more memorable. At the bottom, you’re not quite back in the centre of Funchal

Wander Funchal’s Old Town

The cobbled streets of Funchal have all the things you’d expect from a European old town: beautiful churches and a cathedral, little shops, cafés and restaurants along leafy pavements and plenty of places to stop for an ice cream. But what surprised us most was how relaxed it felt, particularly in late August when you’re usually jostling for space across European hotspots. A huge hit personally? The smattering of pedestrianised squares where you can sit outside with a refreshment (preferably a jug of sangria) while the children have a run around without you constantly fearing for their lives

Rua de Santa Maria is particularly fun with kids thanks to its famously vibrant painted doors. Many of the restaurants, bars and shops along the street have transformed their doors into colourful works of art (we made a game of each picking our favourite).  And those pretty churches and cathedrals I mentioned? As well as admiring the intricate artwork and architecture, you can climb a couple of their towers if you fancy another view over the city

Get Lost in Mercado dos Lavradores

Mercado dos Lavradores is home to a fresh produce market that’s a riot of colour, smells and sounds, with stalls piled high with tropical fruit and vegetables that even I didn’t recognise – quite embarrassing to admit to your own kids! Many of the vendors cut little pieces of fruit for visitors to try, so the children can wander around sampling things they’ve never seen before (ours pulled a mix of delighted and disgusted faces but that’s part of the fun!)

It’s a proper sensory experience: bright pinks, oranges and greens, unfamiliar fruits, the noise of the market and plenty of interesting things to look at. You could easily spend 30 minutes just wandering around the ground floor, before heading upstairs

On the first floor you’ll find craft stalls and souvenirs and, on the other side, Macaronésia Garden Terrace Café, where we stopped for drinks on the rooftop terrace. It can get busy, so while a pushchair is technically doable, I’d leave it behind if you can. We took ours and survived, but life would definitely have been easier without it!

Go Dolphin & Whale Watching

We booked a three-hour dolphin and whale-watching trip through our hotel the day before we went on it – so if you’re as disorganised as I am, rest assured, you need not miss out

Our trip was aboard a huge catamaran, which was a hit with the children before we’d even seen anything. They loved sitting on the nets at the front of the boat, watching the Atlantic rushing underneath them and keeping an eye out for wildlife

We were lucky enough to see whales (we didn’t spot dolphins), though the completely different perspective of Madeira the trip gives you is also pretty cool. The island’s coastline is really quite dramatic, with cliffs rising up out of the sea,black sand bays, and even waterfalls tumbling down the rockface into the ocean

Halfway through our three-hour trip, the boat stopped and everyone had the opportunity to swim in the sea. Take floating aids for children who aren’t confident swimmers, as this is deep open water rather than a shallow beach swim. Towels, swimming kit and plenty of suncream are essentials, as you’re out on the water for several hours and there’s limited shade on the boat. There is also a snack bar but I’d say pack your own too

Take a Break at Funchal’s Municipal Garden

When little legs need a break from sightseeing, Funchal’s Municipal Garden is an easy escape right in the centre of town. It’s lush, teeming with tropical flowers, trees and plants, plus there’s a big water feature with resident fish and ducks to spot. There’s also a cute café right in the middle, making it a useful place to stop for a drink while the children burn off some energy

On the Saturday when we visited there was a craft market (think pretty beaded bracelets and original artwork) ,and there’s also a vast permanent bandstand, to keep any exhibitionist kids happy – our five-year-old wasted absolutely no time turning it into her personal performance venue

It’s exactly the sort of stop that makes sightseeing with children easier: you don’t have to make a special detour to get there, it’s pretty, and you get a 5 minute sit-down while the kids round around

A Few More Funchal Finds

We also did the tour at Blandy’s Wine Lodge, where a 45 minute journey into the history of Madeira wine turned out to be surprisingly manageable with children. It’s definitely not kid-focused, but it is family-friendly. We simply handed our five-year-old a phone and let her explore, taking a million photographs of the enormous wine casks while we learnt about Madeira’s wine-making history. The experience finished with a tasting for the adults, making it a good option if you want to sneak a little grown-up interest into a family day

It’s also worth wandering along the waterfront while you’re in town, watching the boats (there are some cool, old pirate-ship ones) as well as stopping for a photo at the big colourful Madeira sign 

And if you can squeeze in a few minutes of shopping, keep an eye out for Dona Hortênsia, a little boutique selling women’s clothing, jewellery and home bits. Think quirky Anthropologie-esque pieces, but without the Anthropologie price tag!

Fanal Forest

When I first googled pictures of Fanal Forest, I honestly thought it was AI, all of these twisted, otherworldly laurel trees covered in a thick blanket of fog. But as you climb higher into the mountains, you can literally feel the air changing: the blue skies gradually disappear, the air becomes cooler, heavier and more humid, and eventually you’re driving through the clouds

The forest itself is home to thousands of these ancient trees, their branches twisted into wonderfully strange shapes. When the mist rolls in, you can see only a few metres ahead, which feels slightly eerie but also a little bit enchanted, as though you’ve wandered onto the set of a fairy tale

We’d originally planned to stop for just 15 or 20 minutes on our way to Seixal, but ended up staying for more than an hour. Our five-year-old loved deciding what the different trees looked like and trying to copy their strange shapes, while our one year old happily slid around in the mud (the ground is quite slippy due to the moisture in the air)

Our verdict: it is perfectly doable with young children, although we’d leave the buggy behind, and proper trainers with some grip are a much better idea than the sandals I optimistically wore. A waterproof jacket is also worth having, even if it’s warm and sunny down at sea level. The morale? Don’t treat Fanal as a quick photo stop. Allow yourself time to wander, as the atmosphere is half the point

Seixal & the north coast

After Fanal, we headed down towards Seixal and were treated to yet another complete change of scenery – the famous black sand beach that is one of Madeira’s most recognisable

The beach is a generous swathe of soft black sand (that brushes off delightfully easily), with plenty of room for sandcastles and at low tide, paddling and swimming. At higher tide it becomes more of a surf spot, with lots of surf schools and lessons available. Plus plenty of rock pools to explore

If you’re hungry, Seixal has some great restaurant options that are as tasty as they are unique. We spotted the (very highly rated) Seixal Butcher, where meat is purchased from the counter raw before you take it over at the huge barbecue, positioned right above the sea. It’s worth knowing that it is cash-only, and you can’t book.

We ate at Bar Praia da Laje, a much more laid-back little spot literally lapped by the waves, where the menu of fresh meat and fish is simply written on a blackboard by the Caribbean-esque bar and there’s a tiny black-sand cove a few metres away where the children can play 

Last tip: don’t leave Seixal without stopping at the Véu da Noiva viewpoint. Here, a waterfall seems to magically appear out of a cliff face and tumble dramatically into the Atlantic (it’s one of those ‘how is this real?’ views)

Porto Moniz natural pools

If you’re looking for one of the most memorable things to do in Madeira with kids, put the natural pools at Porto Moniz high on the list

They look like an Instagram dream, and are somehow even more impressive in person. The volcanic pools are formed naturally from the black rock, with different depths creating all sorts of shades of blue. There are sloping entrances, steps and wide shallow sections, while waves from the Atlantic occasionally splash up over the rocks and into the pools

There are quite a few shallow areas where toddlers can sit and splash, while older children can explore the different interconnected pools, float under bridges and for the extra-daring, jump off high rocks. There are lifeguards, big changing rooms, toilets and showers, plus lots of cafés nearby, and even a playground just inside the entrance – ideal for a post-swim play.

It was fairly busy when we visited, but never felt overcrowded as it’s just so big, plus there’s plenty of sun loungers and space to lay down your towels. The combination of pools on one side and the Atlantic stretching out on the other made it feel much more exciting than just ‘going for a swim’

Our verdict: A genuine Madeira-with-kids must-do. It’s incredibly photogenic, but more importantly, it’s an experience you simply don’t get in many other places

Pico do Arieiro Summit

A gobsmacking viewpoint without the gruelling hike – the dream when travelling with kids!

The drive up to the summit is spectacular in itself, as you watch the landscape change dramatically out the window, until eventually you’re driving above the clouds. It’s hard to get your head around, looking one way and seeing nothing but white roll out beneath you, with huge rocky peaks piercing through

There’s a big carpark right up by the summit, then it’s only around a five minute walk to the very top. The path is well maintained and there are fences (this isn’t a sketchy little trail & sheer drop affair) but you’ll still want to keep a close hand on little ones so they don’t squeeze through any gaps

Both of our children managed the walk without a buggy or carrier, and once at the top, there is a small loop where you can wander around and take in the views from different directions. On one side, you’ll see hikers making their way along the mountains looking like teeny tiny ants; and on the other, enormous craggy peaks like the surface of another planet. A pretty spectacular return on investment given the minimal hiking involved!

Calheta Beach

After all the dramatic cliffs, mountains and black sand, we promised the children we’d find them a proper golden sand beach, and Calheta delivered

The beach is man-made, with two stretches of golden sand sitting either side of a small inlet. A sea wall keeps the water remarkably calm, creating a huge shallow, gentle expanse that is ideal for toddlers and younger children. This is the place to come for a more traditional European beach experience

There are sun loungers, showers, cafés and restaurants, and you can also find watersports including kayaking and an inflatable obstacle course. There’s a marina just opposite as well, so once you’ve had enough of the beach you can wander along the waterfront, look at the boats and stop for an ice cream

It was busier than some of the more secluded spots we visited, and there was music drifting over from the large hotel beside the beach, so don’t come expecting a deserted little cove. It’s much more of a buzzy, family-friendly beach day (although sea shoes could be useful once you get further into the water, where it becomes more pebbly underfoot)

Quintinha de São João, Funchal

For our first three nights, we stayed at Quintinha de São João, a charming, quite quaint hotel in Funchal with a distinctly traditional Madeiran feel. Think relaxed antique furniture, oil paintings, sprawling, beautiful gardens (a real standout) and the atmosphere of a much-loved family home rather than a slick modern resort

We chose it partly because of its excellent family room layout, with a separate bedroom and living/sleeping area for the children, but the real USP was the service, which exceeded my already high expectations, based on past reviews. Everyone was incredibly warm and genuinely helpful, from arranging our boat trip to recommending restaurants, helping us plan our days and always greeting the kids before the adults

There were also indoor and outdoor pools, and it is around a 15 minute downhill walk into central Funchal (with taxis readily available for the quick whizz back up later on). Being set so high up, the hotel benefitting from the most gorgeous views – sea on one side, and mountains on the other. Once the kids were in bed, and we were sat on the balcony with a (very good) cocktail to a live piano music soundtrack, it was near-bliss

Our verdict: A lovely choice if you want a characterful Funchal base with plenty of charm and genuinely warm service rather than a big, anonymous resort

Airbnb, Jardim do Mar

For the second half of our trip, we swapped the hotel for an Airbnb in Jardim do Mar. The house was beautifully designed, with light, Scandi-style interiors and absolutely huge windows. Downstairs was a brilliantly equipped kitchen and open plan living space (though no TV, if that’s important to you), while upstairs were two spacious en-suite bedrooms with vast walk-in showers

The real star though, were the uninterrupted ocean views from both main bedroom and living room. From both the upstairs and downstairs balconies, the Atlantic stretched out endlessly in front of us, with dramatic cliffs dropping into the sea to one side and the mountains and banana groves behind. It was the kind of place where you could happily spend an afternoon just sat outside, reading a book and taking in the view (maybe before kids, anyway!)

The location was another huge bonus. The house was a short walk from the village, where we had great (affordable) restaurants, bars, a playground, the waterfront & a pier all within easy reach. With no cars in the village itself, the children could wander much more freely, and the whole place had a lovely community feel. It really felt like a little hidden corner of Madeira to be treasured – I feel almost bad spilling the secret! 

Our verdict: If you’re looking for an under-the-radar family base in Madeira, we’d absolutely consider Jardim do Mar. We loved having the space and freedom of a house, the spectacular views and the ability to walk to everything we needed (except a supermarket – you’ll need a car for that!)

Reid’s Palace, A Belmond Hotel

The Cliff Bay

Saccharum Resort & Spa

The Residence, Porto Mare,

Savoy Palace

Hyatt Ziva Madeira

The Views Oasis

Pestana Fisherman Village

Pestana Vila Lido Madeira Ocean Hotel

Funchal

• Brunchology – A great spot for brunch, as the name would suggest, with excellent matcha and fun ‘cloud’ drinks alongside burgers done well, poke bowls and other easy options to keep everyone happy. On a quiet pedestrianised road where the kids can run around
• Zebra Gelato Artesanal – Worth a stop (or two) for excellent ice cream, including the rather brilliant pastel de nata flavour, plus great espressos and pastéis de nata that taste 100x better than the ones at Nandos
• Loft no Monumental – Tucked in a quiet square, making it a particularly idyllic lunch stop for adults who want genuinely good food (and cocktails), and kids who need a bit of room to roam
• Brasa – Another lovely square-side option for a drink and lunch or dinner. We had the kind of chicken wings you could just keep eating, and a jug (or two) of very tasty sangria, while the children played around us
• Macaronésia Garden Terrace Café – Head upstairs after exploring Mercado dos Lavradores for fresh juices, coffee and a sunny terrace overlooking the city

Beyond Funchal

• Bar Praia da Laje, Seixal – One of our favourite food stops of the trip. Fresh fish and meat cooked over a barbecue, served in a wonderfully laid-back setting overlooking the sea, with a little black-sand cove where the children can play while you wait. The cocktails, shaken right infront of you, deserve a special mention as well
• Seixal Butcher – We didn’t actually manage to eat here as I didn’t know it was cash only (but now, you do!), but it has rave reviews and looked like quite the experience. You choose your meat from the counter, then take it over to the BBQ where  it’s cooked over the coals while you wait, right above the ocean. Tables aren’t bookable, so don’t wait until you’re starving to rock up in case there’s a little wait (it’s very popular!)
• Osteria Jardim do Mar – has the most gorgeous terrace with uninterrupted sea views from every angle, plus the prices aren’t nearly as high as you’d anticipate considering how special it feels – both setting, and quite refined Italian-style dishes (but don’t worry, there were plenty of kids around and lots of highchairs available). There’s a playground right outside too 
• Restaurante Tarmar – a rustic (in a good way!) family-run spot, with wonderfully friendly service by both mum and son, generous portions, and excellent traditional Madeiran meat skewers